We got up early and hit the road to the Chinese border at Mohan. The border ordeals are becoming hilarious at this stage. Things went smoothly enough with our passports on the Laos side but to our amusement, everyone had to leave the car and walk a mere 10 metres across the border into no mans land while Dave crept through in the Hummer. Then we just jumped back in the Hummer and drove on not even bothering dispute this useless formality.
The Chinese side of the border was a different ball game. On approach to Mohan you immediately notice the concrete development in complete contrast to the straw Laotian huts only a stones throw away on the other side of the border. It's become standard for us to film border crossings but on this occasion were immediately told to put the camera away, despite the fact that only a few minutes later the same border officials were taking photos of themselves with Hummer. We were greeted by Jason, our obligatory Chinese guide and were relieved to find out he was our age. The need to have a tour guide with us at all times during our Chinese leg is just one of the many stringent regulations when driving a foreign vehicle through China. We also need to get a Chinese license plate for the vehicle and Dave was required to obtain a Chinese drivers license and insurance. Luckily, Jason had organized all of this in advance. This would have been impossible for us to do as none of us have a hint of Mandarin or local knowledge with these matters.
Jason, our new guide with Rhys
After having our Visas checked and passports stamped, the head of customs thoroughly inspected our car and sent us on our way. Our first port of call was to the licensing office in nearby Meng La where the registration plate and driver's license were to be organized. As expected a large Chinese manufactured spanner was put deep in the works and we couldn't get the documents organized until the next day so we were forced to stay in Meng La for the evening. We found a cheap hotel, grabbed our first Chinese dinner and went to bed, only to be woken up at one in the morning with a phonecall to our room from a woman speaking in Chinese. We presumed this was reception but Jason told us the next day that's its common for prostitutes to call every room in Chinese hotels late at night to offer their services!
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